Sasha, what you are seeing is indeed the "source code" - it just so happens that the source code is generating more "code" that gets added to the DOM dynamically. This is the beauty of DHTML.
As for pre-req's, it all depends on what you're trying to do at the end of the day. Generally, you need a *very* good undertanding of Javascript which does all the logic (as well as layout when used in conjunction w/ DHTML). This not only includes the core Javascript API, but also event handling, prototyping (i.e. in terms of creating objects), etc. The DHTML part also includes having a good understanding of CSS and of course basic HTML. The O'Reilly books for Javascript and DHTML are great resources to start with.
More specifically, to learn how the client communicates with the server, you'll want to understand AJAX and JSON.
To learn how the client is architected, it helps to understand MVC (model-view-controller) design pattern as well object oriented design (and more specifically with how to do OO using
JS).
To learn the AJAX toolkit, it helps to understand Java AWT/Swing and SWT as this is what it was originally based on.
I think any more details is beyond the scope of a forum article. A more specific question/issue may be easier to answer
